Owned and run by a Korean ceramics company, every meal in Gaon also serves as a beautiful exhibition of their earthenwar—which, like the décor and the menu, is traditional rustic Korean with a subtle modern twist. The beautiful presentation and excellent attention to detail starts at the door, where every diner is welcomed with a complimentary drink—gin and tonic for men and pink fruity cocktails for women. Even though the cool, dark interior has a wonderfully tranquil feel to it, the aperitifs are probably best drunk as you gaze down out of the window, watching the world go by down on the busy intersection below.

You know something is different as soon as you order a salad (38RMB) and are offered a choice of mushroom or beancurd and grapefruit dressing. The unconventional Korean theme continues with the savoury pancake-- normally too heavy to have with a big meal, but here, they are small and served as appetizers. Try the bulgogi (128RMB)—a mix of mushrooms and scallions served on a hot plate that has a subtle yet tangy flavour. The fatty pork wrapped in pickled cabbage (58RMB) is served with a choice of fermented bean paste and red chili oil to dip it in, but if it is a real spicy kick you crave then the kimchee stew (48RMB) is a must.

Served in a small stone pot brimming with cubes of soft beancurd and pork in a delightfully hot sauce, this dish would be perfect on a winter’s day. The rice at Gaon is cooked inn a special porcelain and at 28RMB, isn’t cheap. However, the portions are large enough to ensure that you will not leave the restaurant hungry. If price really is no object then why not go for the house specialty—red ginseng, abalone and chicken soup, which costs 680RMB per person for standard ginseng or a whopping 2,080RMB for the top grade of root. The soup is recommended for its medicinal value, though is certain to leave most wallets feeling a little queasy.

Gaon, 5/F, East Tower, Twin Towers, B-12 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang district (tel 5120 8899). Open 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-9pm. Meal for two 400RMB.

高恩朝阳区建外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层