Guoyao Xiaoju is one of Beijing’s hidden gems, that onced discovered it is impossible to imagine life without it.

Without much fanfare, the Beijing Culinary Association named this small family eatery the best restaurant for private cuisine in 2005. Since then it has relied on word of mouth to build up a health clientele.

Humbly named Guoyao Xiaoju, or The Little Place of Guo, this restaurant doesn't look like much from the outside. It's tucked away in a small hutong, adorned with a simple pair of red lanterns, a seven-word couplet inscribed on wood and a simple traditional entrance. Inside it is a similar story: just five tables in the small dining area and one private room for eight to ten people.

But this restaurant deserves a big Michelin star. The subtle design is a welcome change from the usual grandeur and tacky décor found in many Beijing restaurants. The Guo's have bucked the growing that focuses more on what goes on the walls than what's on the menu. The restaurant is filled with antiques collected by the owner himself, and has a scholarly ambiance.

But the important thing to know is that the food prepared here is phenomenal. Peeking in at the simple kitchen it's hard to believe that Chef Guo Xinjun, the owner's brother-in-law, is a veteran of the Beijing Hotel, and a man who has prepared state banquets for US Presidents Nixon and Clinton as well as Chinese leaders such as Deng Xiaoping.

Chef Guo is the fourth generation of his family to specialize in Tan family cuisine, which was created by Tan Zongjun, an official who was a native of Guangdong close to the end of Qing dynasty. The Tan family was very fond of rare delicacies, and the many officials invited to their home were impressed with the food that was served there. When the Tan family’s fortunes suffered, they turned their kitchen into a restaurant to support their high life-style

This Tanjiacai uses selected best ingredients and a fusion of Huaiyang and Guangdong to create its own unique style.

Nongtang yudu (48RMB/per bowl, minimum order two servings), fish stomach soup, is a Tan specialty, and the secret lies in the making of the broth. The stock, made from chicken, duck, dried scallops and ham, is rich and tasty, and the fish stomach has a sponge like texture which absorbs the excellent broth.

The wonderful Yasi danjuan (18RMB), shredded duck or camphor tea duck, is combined with chives and then rolled in a layer of crepe, which in turn is rolled in a layer of egg. It’s light, crispy, and the combined taste of the duck and the chives is an absolute joy. No sauce is needed to give this dish flavor.

Baizhuo jielan (16RMB) uses the peeled stems from the mustard leave, blanched to perfection—it’s tender but remains fresh and crunchy—and comes accompanied by a blend of sauce with just the right degree of saltiness.

Another equally impressive member of mustard family is the qingchao gaicai (10RMB), this time sautéed and lightly coated with starch.

Even the simplest and most ordinary dishes prepared at Guoyao Xiaoju become delicious. For example, suanxiang fensi wawa cai (18RMB), fermicelli and baby size bok choy with garlic. There is hardly any trace of garlic in the dish, but the aroma is apparent and it enlivens the bland tasting bok choy and vermicelli.

The perfect end to this perfect meal is almond paste (15 RMB) --how many restaurants today freshly grind their own almond?-- and osmanthus-flavored red bean paste (8RMB/per serving). Each dessert has a soup like consistency, slightly sweet and with pleasant aroma.

Guoyao Xiaoju 58 Bei Santiao, Jiaodao Kou, Andingmennei Dajie, Dongcheng district (tel 6403 1940) Open 10am-2:30pm, 4:30-9pm. Meal for two 100-250RMB

国肴小居 安定门内大街交道口北三条58号