If you're in the mood for something other than the ubiquitous Cantonese or Sichuan fare, try Hakka cuisine, the earthy food of China's hearty Guest People. The specialties here are sanbei ya, or three-cup duck, salt-baked shrimp and baked whole fish wrapped in aluminum foil. If you're in a group, be sure to book one of the tables on the second floor, with a nice lake view.

Han Cang rustic door features rice paper pasted on the rough cement walls with random calligraphy, giving it a smart and chic peasant appearance. The bird cage, pig trough filled with gold fish and thick wooden tables on a granite floor emphasize the peasant but artsy look.

Shichahai Dongan, Xicheng district (tel 6404 2259)