It might sound like trying to reinvent the wheel, but Hot Loft say they have revolutionized the hotpot. Specializing in a modern twist on the age-old favourite, the restaurant is the latest addition to the Loft family of restaurants that includes Pink Loft, Noodle Loft and flagship eatery, The Loft, which has now reopened under the Hot Loft banner.

The goose foie gras (48RMB) soaked in sake is an astonishingly good appetizer – melting in the mouth like chocolate while the taste of the liquor lingers – and makes the pork liver infused in tea (22RMB) taste rather dull by comparison. The Shanyao, or Chinese yam in plum juice (16RMB) is as delicious as it sounds and has a surprisingly crispy texture that is nicely complemented by the coating of sweet and sour sauce.

Hot Loft have dragged the hotpot bubbling into the 21st century by increasing the range of soup bases and dipping sauces on offer, although they now have so many options it can make it difficult to choose just one. Do you plump for either the hot and sour broth in a Thai or a Sichuan style or order a duck or plain broth with scallions, dates and wolfberries instead? Is it best to dip in a garlic, chili or old fashioned tahini sauce? After ten minutes of head scratching we opted for the set meal for one person (56RMB), which includes the standard hotpot accompaniment: a choice of beef or lamb, a mixture of vegetables, pork or beef meatballs, and a dipping sauce. All are good, but the sirloin beef is truly excellent; it's cut paper-thin and cooks instantly in the delicious bubbling broth.

The duck broth (20RMB) and a variety of meatballs (60RMB) filled with cheese, foie gras, and caviar fillings is on the a la carte menu. The broth is so rich and tasty that it makes you wonder what’s wrong with the duck soup served at the many kaoya places in town.

However, the assorted filled meatballs are a big disappointment – they are a nice idea but the only filling that had any character was that of the overpowering cuttlefish, which had a little too much. The idea of putting foreign elements in the meatballs is a great idea, but the reality is sadly more of a clash of cuisines than genuine fusion and is done just for the sake of it.

Twice as good and half the price are the beef tendon meatballs (28RMB) – fat free, chewy in texture and full in taste they are highly recommended.

Sleek and stylish, the Hot Loft is probably the most comfortable place to eat hotpot in the city. The simple but elegant décor and clean environment is reason enough to come back, though getting through the door in the first place is hard enough. After exiting the elevator into a dimly-lit fifth floor entrance, a beam of light shining on an ancient cooking vessel marks the door. Place your hand above the vessel and the door opens just like something from Indiana Jones – there is no truth in the rumour that a giant meatball will roll down the corridor and crush diners who don’t enter quickly enough.

Hot Loft Fifth Floor, 8 Gongti Xi Lu, Chaoyang district (tel 6552 7992); 4 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang district (tel 6501 7501). Open 10am-5am daily. Meal for two 200RMB.

鼎酷朝阳区工体西路8号五层; 朝阳区工体北路4号院内(原藏酷餐厅)