The old hutong of Nanluoguxiang has recently had its streets widened and paved yet, unlike the Lotus Lane--the Houhai strip of loud theme bars and restaurants -- the area has managed to retain some of its old world charm while becoming an exciting and modern hub of new food joints, cafes and bars. The addition of Indian restaurant, Mirch Masala certainly demonstrates this fact, and at the same time bolsters the street’s claim as a viable nightlife alternative to Sanlitun.

Small and cozy with a corner bay window overlooking the bustling alleyway, the restaurant itself is pleasant enough and friendly owner, Daya Shanker, makes himself available to help those new to subcontinental cuisine navigate the menu.

Packed with potatoes, chick-peas and green peas all encased in a crisp pastry – the reasonably priced pair of vegetable samosas (12RMB) are the perfect way to start a meal – but unfortunately the garam masala, spice mixture of cloves, cinnamon, cardamon, cumin, coriander are not as apparent as they should be. The lentil soup (10RMB) is mediocre. Even though the Punjabi-style chicken tikka masala (35RMB) and the Kahmiri rogan josh (35RMB) both boast tenderly cooked meat and beautifully thick sauces, their overall taste is blander than usual as they seem to lack the exotic blend of spices which normally stir the senses. Thankfully the pilao rice seasoned with saffron and cardamon (15RMB) and the garlic and onion naan (8RMB) are without fault.

Is it possible that Mirch Masala has toned down its flavours to accommodate non-Indian palates? If there was a bit more of a kick in the food, this very affordable restaurant with warm service would be the city’s default curry house. We hope to get a different experience on our next visit.

Mirch Masala 60-2 Nan Luogu Xiang, Dongcheng district (tel 6406 4347). Meal for two 150RMB

马沙拉之香 东城区南锣鼓巷60－2.