This brand new restaurant features rural Yunnan cuisine in an aultra-modern discotheque-like environment with TV screens scattered around showing music videos.

The dining venues are all secluded in glass-partitioned areas furnished with comfortable sofas and booth seating. Maroon red velour curtains are draped over the entrance to each dining section, as if you were in a Broadway theatre and diners can request any song they like while dining.

The enticing menu has dishes that are basically Yunnanese, albeit with a little improvisation. The staff are professional in pointing out which dishes are popular and well liked without pressuring you to order the expensive items.

“Grapes” (28RMB) are carved out of winter melon and marinated in grape juice and a dash of red wine. It reminded us of candied blackcurrant pestilles -- an interesting and very refreshing invention.

The mint leave salad (22RMB) and thin slivers of green papaya salad (36RMB) served with tender squid, both dressed in a pungent and savory dressing, are quickly devoured – not only because they are nice, but also the portions are so small.

The baked fish in lemon grass (68RMB) is cooked to perfect tenderness, yet a little bit bland, lacking the exotic flavors of Yunnan. However, our disappointment is made up for by the delicious cross-over-the-bridge noodles (38RMB) and glutinous rice cooked in bamboo tube (12RMB). The rice noodles are as slippery as an eel, have a firm texture, and are served in a very good broth without any trace of oil. Bits of ganba, cured beef, were added to the glutinous rice, giving it an extra zing in addition to the bamboo flavor.

The highlight of a meal at One Night is the niugan mushrooms sautéed in dried chilis and garlic (88RMB). Although spicy, it’s not so overpowering that it undermines the delicious taste of the mushrooms. It’s worth paying a visit for this dish alone.

If it weren’t for the measly portions, One Night could most definitely be a perfect venue for a Yunnan fix.

Basement of Jinglun Hotel, 3 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang district (tel 6507 9778) Open 11am-2am. Meal for two 300RMB.

北京一夜 朝阳区建国门外大街3号京伦饭店B1层